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Making Jewelry - Wire Wrapping 101
By Dianne Lehmann

Do you know what the one basic wire working technique is, that is so useful when making jewelry that it is well worth taking the time to learn and practice? It is known as the wrapped loop. There are photographs to accompany this article. They may be found at SyZyGy Jewelry. A working link to the site can be found at the end of this article. Go to the last item on the main menu (Jewelry Tools) and click on the "Wrapped Loop" page.

If you do not know how to solder silver and gold, this is the most secure way to attach one design element to another. It will also let you make a pendant out of any bead, make your own chain and produce wonderful earrings that will not come apart.

To begin, you will need:
1. chain nose pliers
2. round nose pliers
3. cutters
4. 20 or 22 gauge wire or 3" headpins (the wire should be half hard)
5. an assortment of beads

Chain nose pliers (CNP) are like needle nose pliers without the grooves on the inside of the jaws. This allows you to grip the wire without marring it. Round nose pliers (RNP) have two smooth, conical jaws that get larger toward the joint. The cutters should be semi-flush. Box joints are better than joints like you would find on a pair of scissors.

I rarely use headpins. I prefer wire because it is less wasteful, but if you do not like the look of the handmade headpin, then by all means, use commercially made headpins. It is best to practice with 3" headpins because it gives you more to work with. So, let's begin.

If you are using wire instead of headpins, cut a piece that is about 10" long. Any longer and it gets a little difficult to manage. Straighten the wire. To make the headpin, grab the wire at one end with the very tips of the chain nose pliers. Bend the wire back on itself, but not all the way. Pinch the end closed the rest of the way with the CNP. If the hole in your bead is large, make a larger crimp. You do not really want the "head" to be pulled up inside of the bead.

Insert the wire or the headpin into the bead keeping in mind whether or not there is a top and bottom to the bead. You will need to leave a space between the bottom of the loop you are about to make and the top of the bead for the wraps. Depending on how many wraps around the wire you want to make, either grasp the wire by the tips of the round nose pliers or further toward the jaws. This is mostly a matter of experience and much depends on the gauge of wire that you are using. Then make a right angle bend in the wire or headpin.

Next, decide how big you want your finished loop to be. For a very small loop use the tips of the round nose pliers. For a larger loop, use a part of the RNP that is closer to the joint. Grasp the wire with the RNP so that one of the jaws is on top.

Hold the round nose pliers so that the end of the wire is pointing away from you. Using the other hand put your fingers close to the RNP and push the wire toward you over the jaw that is on top. Then pull the wire the rest of the way around until the bottom jaw stops you.

Slightly loosen your grip on the wire with the round nose pliers so that you can rotate the bottom jaw out of the way without losing your place along the length of the jaw. Finish taking the wire all the way around the jaw. You may have to pull the wire slightly to the side to pass the bead.

Remove the loop from the pliers and inspect it for symmetry. Everything should be at right angles to each other. Also, the loop should be centered on the shaft of the wire as is sticks up out of the bead. If the loop is not centered, re-insert the round nose pliers jaw until it stops, grasp the loop with the pliers and roll your hand away from the excess wire until the loop is centered. Straighten the excess back to a right angle.

Next, using your chain nose pliers, grasp the loop with the excess wire pointing up.

Hold the loop firmly, and with the other hand, work the excess wire away from you and around the short wire between the loop and the top of the bead. Work slowly and steadily so that you get the wraps right next to each other. Speed can be your enemy here.

When your last wrap touches the top of the bead, stop. Use your cutters to cut the remainder of the excess wire off as closely as you can. A word about cutters. The side of the semi-flush cutter that is smooth and flat will make a cut with the smallest point. The side (pictured at the beginning of the article) that is angled will produce the largest point on the end of the wire. So it is best to have the flat side of the cutters facing the wire that will remain with the angled side toward the "waste" wire. Use your chain nose pliers to gently squeeze the very end of the wire into its final position. Run your finger over it to be certain that it will not poke or scratch the wearer.

Voila! You have made your first wrapped loop. You are well on your way to making beautiful jewelry. Last thing to remember is practice, practice, practice. Do not expect to do it perfectly the first time or even the seventh. But do keep at it. As I said in the beginning, this is the single most valuable wire wrapping technique that you can learn.

   

About the Author:
Dianne Lehmann. 
http://www.syzygyjewelry.com

 


 

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