The Importance of Good Craftsmanship in Jewelry

When purchasing handcrafted jewelry, most buyers are concerned primarily with the design. However, to ensure that you are getting good value for your money, it is important to examine the workmanship itself. I’ve outlined some of the most common elements of handmade jewelry and how to identify good craftsmanship.

Wrapped Loops

Many pieces of handcrafted jewelry are made with wrapped loops. These are used to create links of beads on wire.

When examining handmade jewelry, check to see that the loops are neat and even, and that no pieces of the wire are jutting out from the loop.

Jump Rings

Jump rings should be closed neatly so that the ends butt together evenly. Any gap in the jump ring opening is a sign of potential breakage and loss of the jewelry. This is especially important when purchasing chain maille jewelry, since it is made entirely of jump rings joined together.

Not only the strength, but the beauty of chain maille relies on the proper closing of jump rings. One must be especially observant in its purchase.

Finishing

There are many techniques for finishing off bracelets and necklaces that are strung on wire. One of the most popular is crimping. Crimp beads are special tubes that are either flattened around the stringing wire or closed with a special tool called crimping pliers, that actually folds the crimp in and around the wire in a smaller tube that holds the wire securely.

Crimps should be closed tightly enough around the wire to hold it securely, but not so tight that it cuts into the wire, which could cause the wire to break over time. Crimps should also be evenly closed so that they make a neat tube shape and are not skewed or lop-sided.

Some designers choose to use two crimps on each end of their jewelry. This is not a necessity but can provide extra durability. Others put one regular bead between the crimp and the clasp to prevent the crimp from cutting into the wire over time. Again, this is not necessary but does provide extra insurance.

  Slack

Beads should have enough room for the beads to curve into a circle without being crowded, as this puts stress on the beading wire and crimps, which could cause breakage.

However, it’s also important to make sure that when the bracelet or necklace is formed into a circle, it does not show any gaps between the beads or between the beads and the crimp/clasp. Well-made jewelry will be finished with this in mind.

Marring

When working with wire and other components, pliers are used to bend and shape the metal. If a designer does not take great care during this process, the metal may become scratched or marred. Although this does not necessarily compromise the strength of the jewelry, it is a mark of inexperienced or careless craftsmanship.

Nicks

Nicks may also occur while working the metal components in a piece of jewelry. They are more serious because small nicks in stringing or metal wire may cause weak spots in the jewelry and result in premature breakage.

Over-Working

Wire can become brittle in places that it has been bent back-and-forth too many times. This creates weak points which may easily break. Over-worked wire often appears to be cracked or looks thinner than the rest of the wire.

Cracks

A great deal of pressure can be placed on gemstones during the construction of jewelry depending on the techniques used. Some gemstones are more brittle than others. Apatite, while very beautiful and costly, is one of the most brittle semi-precious gemstones. Check to be sure that none of the stones have been chipped or cracked while being incorporated into the jewelry.

Keep in Mind

Handmade jewelry, when well-made of quality materials, is truly a treasure. Following these basic guidelines will ensure that your jewelry is not only beautiful, but durable as well.

About the Author:
Georgia Hadley is a jewelry designer, writer, and small business owner who lives in rural Vermont. In addition to her own business, Adorneya Jewelry (http://www.adorneya.com), she is also a founding editor of Craft Revolution (http://www.craftrevolution.com), a website dedicated to promoting mainstream awareness of independent designers and their products as desirable alternatives to big-box stores.